Customizing machine translation models to comply with desired attributes (e.g., formality or grammatical gender) is a well-studied topic. However, most current approaches rely on (semi-)supervised data with attribute annotations. This data scarcity bottlenecks democratizing such customization possibilities to a wider range of languages, particularly lower-resource ones. This gap is out of sync with recent progress in pretrained massively multilingual translation models. In response, we transfer the attribute controlling capabilities to languages without attribute-annotated data with an NLLB-200 model as a foundation. Inspired by techniques from controllable generation, we employ a gradient-based inference-time controller to steer the pretrained model. The controller transfers well to zero-shot conditions, as it operates on pretrained multilingual representations and is attribute -- rather than language-specific. With a comprehensive comparison to finetuning-based control, we demonstrate that, despite finetuning's clear dominance in supervised settings, the gap to inference-time control closes when moving to zero-shot conditions, especially with new and distant target languages. The latter also shows stronger domain robustness. We further show that our inference-time control complements finetuning. A human evaluation on a real low-resource language, Bengali, confirms our findings. Our code is https://github.com/dannigt/attribute-controller-transfer
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